Bushviper wrote:I dont believe the moist substrate has anything to do with pyramiding. My biggest tortoises are over 50 years old and show no signs of pyramiding and they are not kept moist at all. I have also heard of the SA pardalis being called "blonds" in the US. I think this is because they are known to hibernate where the babcocki do not hibernate well. In actual fact the colours do not indicate anything as pardalis have almost the same colours.
Keeping them in a northern climate would be difficult but sunlight would be the best solution. In winter I know this will not be possible. Whatever you do do not give them damp surroundings to hibernate in. That will kill them. They do not occur in "tropical rain forests" but prefer dry savannah bushy regions.
As you can see these are not kept in damp surroundings and are normal. I suspect the diet will be far more important. I also think your female is too small to breed and please do not let a sulcata anywhere near her.
Thank you for your imput. As far as the pyramiding goes, the heightened humidity seems to offset the drying effects of the artificial lighting. In the room where I keep my hatchlings, the humidity in the winter is very dry, around 20%. I spray the substrate to increase humidity, but after about 10 minutes, it's dry to the touch. As far as my female goes, how large do your recommend? She is 11 years old, 14" long (36cm) and weighs about 18 pounds.(8064g)About the size of the ones you are pictured with. As far as diet, they all get a prepared tortoise diet as well as grass,dandelions, maple, grape, and mulberry leaves, opuntia cactus, aloe. As much water as they want. Calcium carbonate is available as well. They're outside, and graze all summer. They are kept quite warm all winter. Inside UVA and UVB lighting